Jean-Claude Boisset is going from strength to strength under the stewardship of Grégory Patriat, and his wines have received much critical acclaim over recent years. Key are the entry point Bourgogne wines, which are sealed under stelvin, handled in the same way as the ‘Cru’ wines, and made from the declassified fruit of better Villages to maximise wine quality. Jean-Claude Boisset, the son of school teachers, founded his fledgling wine company in the early 1960s in the heart of Nuits-Saint-Georges, in the former Ursulines convent. The building, to which nuns fled after the Revolution, is the winery today and the tasting room is under what was the Mother Superior’s house. Grégory is one of the best of the younger generation of viticulturalist/winemakers in Burgundy, and has an artisanal, non-interventionist approach to making wine. He arrived at Jean-Claude Boisset in 2002, having spent three years working at top Vosne-Romanée producer Domaine Leroy. Grégory acts as a viniculteur rather than as a négociant, as he only buys grapes. He spends a great deal of his time in the vineyards and, over nearly a decade, has built up impressive relationships with key growers, who he pays a higher price per hectare (rather than per tonne) to ensure lower yields. Grégory has access to some of the best vineyard parcels across Burgundy, works largely with organic growers, and focuses much of his attention on ‘lieu-dits’ (or small, single vineyards), which accounts for the limited production of his wines.
The fruit for this wine comes from old vines, all from the Côte de Nuits, which ensures that the quality of the blend is far higher than that of a standard Bourgogne. The vineyard management here is stringent and uses specific techniques to control yields, which ensures good concentration of flavours in the grapes, such as debudding, cluster thinning, little or no use of fertiliser and environmentally friendly vine protection.
Intense red colour, with ruby reflections. The open nose shows notes of red fruits, with a touch of spice and vanilla. Very complex on the palate, with elegant tannins, excellent red fruit intensity that is typical of good Pinot Noir and great length.